Rose Planting & Rose Pruning Instructions

If you have any questions you would like to ask please e-mail us at: enquiries@apuldramroses.co.uk

Planting your Roses
When you receive your roses plant as soon as possible. If the ground is waterlogged heel them in out of the frost. Keep the roots moist. If the roots are all dry, immerse in a bucket of water for an hour before planting.

Make a hole large enough to spread the roots out evenly. Make up a mixture of one part soil and one part peat and two handfuls of Bone Meal.

Use the mixture to cover the roots. Firm this in by treading around the plant. If you have any well rotted farm manure now is the time to add it, laying it lightly over the firm soil. On top of this put a layer of soil loosely on the surface. The Bud Union should be on a level or just a fraction below the surface of the soil when planting is completed.

Container Grown Roses
When roses are purchased in containers, disturb them as little as possible. Dig a hole just large enough for the size of the container then ease the plant free and fit into the hole and tread in firmly following the procedure in planting your roses. Water is essential to a newly planted container rose. For the first 14 days water every day until it looks really well settled.

It is essential that whenever you plant your Roses you inspect them every week or so (more often if you can mange it) to see how they are faring. They may need a stem cut or a tie secured and it is very important to check and do this even in the depths of winter. Plants respond to loving care and attention and will repay you during their flowering season.

Planting Standard Roses
Drive stake in first. If you can obtain a rounded stake this prevents rubbing on the stem of the plant in windy conditions. Plant as for rose bushes and tie firmly. Three ties are advisable. One at the top just below the union - this is to be a very strong tie because as the rose matures there is a lot of weight on the top of the plant. If this is not supported well the whole of the top can break off in gale conditions. The second tie half way down the stem and the third at the bottom. It is essential to examine these ties every week or so to see that they have not become loose especially if the weather is windy.

Planting Climbers and Ramblers
When planting climbers and ramblers near the house or wall make sure the hole you dig is at least 1ft away and lay the roots in the opposite direction to the wall. Plant at a slight angle towards the support being used e.g. trellis wall, pillar and then spread the stems out in the shape you wish the plant to follow and secure firmly using garden string or twine. If they are not tied up the wind will soon loosen them. It is impossible for a plant that is continually being tugged this way and that to put out tiny young roots.

Winter Care
It is a good idea in November-December when all the leaves have fallen from the plants to clear the ground and give the soil a good drenching with Jeyes Fluid or Armillatox. This disinfects the ground and leaves no harmful residue. Dilute your disinfectant according to the instructions with Jeyes Fluid (1fl oz to 4 pts water) with Armillatox (1fl oz to 1 gallon).

Spraying
Spray directly the leaves are well formed, about the end of April with a multiple spray to combat Black Spot, Mildew and Rust. Applications at 2-3 week intervals throughout the season should keep the plant in perfect condition. Spray both the top and underside of the leaves.

Feeding
A healthy plant is much less likely to succumb to disease, so regular feeding throughout the year is advisable. The garden roses at Apuldram are fed four times annually; Bone Meal in October and January; Vitax Q4 in April and June.

Deadheading
Deadheading should be done throughout the summer season. With secateurs cut through the stem at the second leaf break below the flower on Hybrid Teas. With Floribundas and Miniatures, remove the flower only, until the whole cluster is dead then cut back as with HT's. If you are growing your roses for their hips do not remove the flowers at the end of the season.

Basic Pruning Instructions
Good pruning is essential to the health of a bush. Before you start, these points should be noted:

	Secateurs should be of the highest quality - bad cuts are more likely to damage a bush than either disease or frost.
	Wipe the secateurs with methylated spirits between varieties if possible.
	The cut should be sloping, beginning on the side farthest from the eye and slanting towards it, finishing just above the eye.
	From all bushes cut out dead wood and weak spindly shoots.

Old Bushes
If you inherit a garden with old bushes with shoots like tree trunks cut half the shoots to the base the first year and half the second year then continue in the normal way. An old bed may completely be rejuvenated by this method.

Hybrid Tea Roses
First year: prune to 4-5 inches choosing outward facing eyes. If the shoots are thin but not spindly prune to 1-2 inches. After the first year prune to exactly the same height but take ONE shoot down to the first eye thus encouraging basal growth. Succeeding years should see a repetition of this pruning.

Floribunda Roses
First year: prune 4-6 inches as for Hybrid Teas. Thereafter prune to 6-9 inches.

Patio & Miniature Roses
Prune hard to 1-2 inches as all the upper part of the plant is the flowering growth only, so there are no leaf buds on it.

Repeat Flowering Climbers
(For example, Pink Perpeture, Nightlight, Dublin Bay) Points to remember: 1) On walls train horizontally - light, air and room to spread are essential. 2) On pillars, posts and pergolas shoots should be zig-zagged or twisted rather than going straight up. First year: just tip by cutting away the soft and thin top of the shoots. Subsequently they can be treated like bush roses. Their laterals (side growths from main stems) or sub-laterals (growth from the side growths) should be pruned hard to two eyes from the main branch.

Ramblers
(For example, Dorothy Perkins, Albertine, Alberic Barbier) Prune in the autumn - tidy up in the spring. These flower on the previous years growth, therefore after that wood has flowered it should be cut away and the new growth of the current year be tied in its place.

Shrub Roses & Ground Cover Roses
Cut out dead wood and weakly growth. For the first few years no other pruning need be carried out. As time progresses it may prove necessary to cut out some of the older wood (you may need long handled secateurs for this) to encourage new growth. The plant needs air and light so cut out any stems that are overcrowded.

Standard Roses
The pruning of Standard roses follows the same principles of the same variety but remember that the bush on the end of the stem is a long way from its food supply so good feeding is essential.